5 Things Beginner Climbers Should Know

One of the great things about rock climbing is that you can start at any age – yes, really. Whereas other sports rely on explosive bursts from fast twitch muscle fibers, climbing is more about technique than brute strength, and on top of that, once you learn to downclimb properly, it really is a low-impact sport.

The keyword in that last sentence is “learn,” although the keyphrase “once you learn” is better. The thing is, you don’t know what you don’t know, and that can make learning difficult.

Until you learn from experience or someone that knows shows you (which is why rock climbing classes for adults can be very valuable) you’re on your own. So here are some common things beginner climbers should learn, sooner rather than later.

Use Your Feet

This is far and away the most important thing new climbers need to keep in mind, and it is transformative advice.

Look, it’s impressive watching an experienced climber campus a route on an overhang (that is, complete the climb without using his or her feet) but the truth is, climbing doesn’t have to be about burning out your muscles every single time you do it.

And, if that weren’t the case, our lower bodies are just stronger than our upper bodies, period. Your legs are just stronger than your arms. You don’t have to like it but you might as well accept it.

Which means this: you need to learn how to use your legs, and where to place your feet, when you climb. You will not get tired as quickly if you’re working out which hold to grab next if you have a sure footing.

So plan your approach to the route with footholds in mind, and take them. Once you have a good footing, you can focus on what to reach for next.

And here’s another pro tip – if you’re looking at a route and see a hold with a lot of white, that means most climbers are using it as a handhold. If you see a lot of black, that’s rubber from the soles of climbing shoes. It also means that might be a place where you might want to step – you’re welcome for the beta.

Learn How to Smear

Smearing refers to the process of using your foot to press against the wall when no hold is available. This is a fundamental (though not necessarily apparent) skill that all climbers should learn, and the sooner the better.

The thing is, sometimes you get a bomber in your grip (a really juggy hold that offers positive purchase) but nowhere to place your feet. That’s alright – you can use the climbing wall itself for stability.

You would be surprised just how much control you can take back by pressing the side of your foot, or just your toe, against the wall. It will stabilize you and will take a little of the load off your hands. Trust us, smearing is less tiring than dangling.

Also, when doing so, let your arms hang straight if you can. Bent arms will tire you out more quickly since you’re engaging your biceps.

Before you know it, you’ll be smearing from muscle memory.

Learn How to Flag

Flagging refers to the process of sticking out a limb, most commonly a leg, in the opposite direction from which you’re reaching in order to adjust your center of gravity. Occasionally, flagging occurs in the direction in which you are reaching. Really, it’s just the practice of using the limbs to shift the center of gravity to your advantage so you can put your body where you need to.

Here’s the most basic example. You need to reach left, but your center of gravity is biased in that direction, so if you remove your hand from a hold and reach that way, your body will shift over to it and you could barn door (swing off the wall) which usually results in a fall. So, what you do is stick your leg out to the right, so that when you reach left, you can do so without being thrown off balance.

In some degree or other, you should flag every time you reach for a hold, in order to control your center of gravity so that you never (ideally) lose your balance.

Like smearing, flagging is a fundamental and vital skill that will have you sending more and more routes in no time.

Get Good Climbing Shoes (And Recognize That Not All Shoes Are Good for Everything)

When you’re just starting out, one pair of shoes will do just fine. We’re not trying to tell you to buy 5 pairs out of the gate. But at the same time you need to recognize that different shoes are better for different applications.

For instance, shoes with hard, sharp edges and stiff midsoles are better for edging (standing on tiny ledges) as the shoe will support your foot so you don’t get fatigued as quickly. Shoes with softer midsoles and a sharp downturn are better for overhangs and heel hooking because they allow you to “grab” more powerfully with your heel.

However, one pair will do just fine in the beginning. Climbing shoes can be a bit uncomfortable, so what you’ll want is a pair with high symmetry and flat soles (as opposed to a sharp downturn). Ask someone at a climbing gym or sporting goods store and they’ll show you what this means.

Which is another pointer for beginners. Don’t buy your climbing shoes online. You absolutely must try them on before buying because all manufacturers use different lasts and sometimes if you buy a pair in your street shoe size they will be far too tight.

Either buy them at a gym or go to a retailer that sells climbing shoes and get them there. It will save you several returns and you’ll be glad you did.

Shorten the Learning Curve with Rock Climbing Classes for Adults

Our last bit of advice is to take rock climbing classes for adults if you’re serious about learning. A coach will help you learn the ropes (both literally and figuratively) and can show you insider pointers like these that you’d otherwise have to figure out on your own.

Of course, you don’t need to and can learn by yourself – just remember that taking rock climbing classes for adults can make things a bit easier while you’re trying to digest a boatload of information as a beginner. Either way, the climbing experience can boost your problem solving abilities and you’ll learn things as you go – but classes can speed things along.